c. 1907 Net Evening Gown
Four Piece Black Dress Worn by Josie Stuart,
c. 1907, sewn by Madame Rose H. Boyd, Minneapolis, MN, MNHS 1985.24.2 A-D
This four-piece gown was worn by the first female pharmacist in Minnesota and was constructed by well-known dressmaker Rose Boyd. The skirt and evening bodice were conserved and mounted for the 2019 exhibition The Art of High Style: Minnesota Couture 1880–1914.
Overall the piece was in good condition. Some tears on the silk net bodice had to be consolidated and the entire costume had to be mounted on a form. I custom-built and carved a mannequin to fit the dress and created a prop belt to complete the ensemble.
Silk Net Consolidation Before and After
Because of the age and fragility of the silk net, small tears appeared throughout the bodice. These were consolidated using Skala thread in black to invisibly stitch the tears back together.
Shapes of Ethafoam were cut and a channel for the metal rod was carved.
A mock up of the side view was placed on the Ethafoam block to begin the preliminary carving.
Bit by bit the Ethafoam was shaved away.
First carving pass complete!
She needed to be even skinner- I aimed for the Ethafoam form to be approx. 4 inches smaller that the measurements so I could pad the form out.
Side view of the final carving.
Then the Ethafoam was padded out with polyester batting and polyester felt.
Got to have enough "junk in the trunk"!
A stockinette cover was put on, a wide twill tape bound the waist, and buckram stood in for legs.
I used Jean Hunnisetts "Costumes for the Stage and Screen" to draft an early 20th century petticoat.
The petticoat was give a dramatic flounce!
The muslin mock up was based off of extant examples and featured a ruched center front.
The dress was fitted again and a belt mock-up was made.
First fitting.
The final belt was constructed out of black silk and had plastic stays at the center back.
3/4 arms were added, made from stockinette and rolled polyester batting, and and covered with black silk.
Can't forget the finish the neck with a nice card cap and neat hand sewing.
Final belt from the front.
The final belt closed with hook and eyes at the back.
Finished mannequin neck
Finished mannequin back
Finished mannequin Side
Finished mannequin front
Completed consolidation of the silk net at the shoulder.
Overall Back
Overall Front
Overall Side